The shows of avant-garde designers sometimes seem grotesque and slightly insane. Someone admires the flight of design thought, but someone does not understand it. We understand together the trends of avant-garde fashion.
What is avant-garde
Vanguardism is a movement in art, which is characterized by innovative, experimental ideas and radical ways of their embodiment. The direction appeared at the beginning of the twentieth century and became a kind of revolution in cinema, music, painting, literature and, of course, fashion. Vanguardism was intended to change the traditional concept of art, and he partially succeeded.
Over time, avant-garde art lost its rebellious spirit and formed into a full-fledged popular trend with many directions.
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Vanguard in fashion
Many fashion historians agree that the avant-garde style in clothing appeared in Japan in the early 1920s. In unusual outfits, a vision was made by Japanese designers of European fashion.
But avant-garde began its formation on world catwalks in the 60s, when Pierre Cardin, inspired by the successes of mankind in space exploration, created the legendary Cosmos collection. The clothes looked futuristic, had clear lines, geometric cutouts and was presented in bright colors.
Pierre cardin
The collection caused a sensation and became one of the most famous couturier in his career.
After such a violent reaction to the Cardin collection, many eminent designers turned to avant-garde. For example, Vivienne Westwood has been creating completely unusual outfits since the early 1970s, promoting rebellious ideas of punk culture in them.
Vivienne Westwood - the grand lady of avant-garde fashion
Features avant-garde style
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Although avant-garde denies all patterns and is looking for new, non-standard ways, in avant-garde clothing one can still distinguish several unchanging features:
- Geometric shapes
- The combination of different textures
- Contrast
- Bold colors
- Asymmetry
- Custom parts
Vanguard directions in fashion
Deconstructivism
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In 1981, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo presented to the world their collections, which were completely different from the usual fashion. Models in multilayer asymmetric outfits of an unusual design took to the podium. Since then, the direction of deconstructivism has appeared in avant-garde fashion, which is characterized by complex forms, fragmentation, asymmetry, violation of the usual geometry of clothing. For example, you can find a jacket that goes into a dress, a shirt with one sleeve, T-shirts with a displaced neckline or outer seams.
Conceptualism
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The most striking manifestation of avant-garde. The main task of the conceptual collections is to express the designer's idea, show the vision of modern fashion, and convey through the models some views and ideas of the designer. Such clothes can not be found in everyday life. Conceptualism is characterized by metaphorical and unusual design solutions, a lot of draperies and non-standard materials. Conceptual things are designed for the catwalk and should tell a story, and sometimes shock.
Minimalism
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Sufficiently concise direction, which is characterized by a minimum number of parts, traditional materials and monochrome. Now minimalism is one of the most sought-after trends in avant-garde fashion. Perhaps because of its restraint and versatility.
Modern avant-garde brands
This is not to say that some of the designers work only in avant-garde, but you can distinguish those who especially often refer to this style in their collections
Yohji yamamoto
The legendary Yohji Yamamoto might not have become a designer at all. Before he took up fashion design, he received a law degree from a university. It’s good that life ordered it differently and Yamamoto became a fashionable revolutionary. The designer was the first to create women's clothing of a man's cut and silhouette. This resonated with the fashion world and many brands began to imitate the unusual designs and shapes of Yohji Yamamoto.
Comme des garçons
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French-Japanese brand created by Rei Kawakubo. The brand is focused mainly on women's clothing and often experiments with color, shapes and proportions. At the shows, you can see young people in pink wigs, girls in men's disproportionate clothes.
Viktor & Rolf
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A duet of Dutch designers who announced themselves at the very beginning of their careers and for their very first collection were awarded three awards.
Designers' clothes are distinguished by sculptural forms, an abundance of pleats and an unusual approach to the presentation of collections. For example, during the show of the Black Hole collection, all models were painted black, and the color scheme of things was exclusively black.
Alexander McQueen
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From the very beginning of his career, McQueen has established himself as an innovator who does not want to put up with the traditional concept of fashion.
His models are distinguished by the unusual shape and texture. McQueen was not afraid to experiment with fabrics and often used non-standard materials. The fall-winter 2009 collection consisted almost entirely of bird feathers.
Each McQueen show had its own concept - at the spring-summer 2010 show, the designer showed his vision of the world after global warming. All models were presented in textures resembling reptile skin.
Rick owens
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Designer clothes are mostly soothing colors. As a rule, black, gray and white, but despite such restraint in colors, Rick Owens's models can not be called standard at all. Features of the designer’s images - uneven cut, asymmetric things, complex and unusual shapes. Owens also does not neglect the details: on his jacket you can find, for example, three sleeves, one of which acts as a decoration.
Rick prefers to demonstrate his collections in the manner peculiar to avant-garde artists. At the spring-summer 2016 show, the designer literally fastened the models together. Someone was carried on the back, someone was fastened with a jack. With this, the designer wanted to show that every woman has a heavy burden that she has to cope with.
How to collect an avant-garde image
If you are ready to slightly depart from fashion standards and discover the avant-garde style, here are a few criteria that you need to consider when creating a bold image.
Accessories
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First of all, you need to understand that the avant-garde style is not so much a way to attract attention, how to express yourself, and sometimes convey some idea through your image. So you need to take care of the whole look as a whole, and not just about the clothes. No matter how unusual your dress may look, boring accessories and everyday makeup will smear the whole image. It is better to think over makeup in advance, choose a voluminous necklace or an interesting bag.
Texture blending
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In the avant-garde style, you can often find a mixture of textures and materials. But in the mixing of fabrics, you need to be very careful, otherwise the stylish outrageous image can become a usual bad taste. To learn this, it is worth experimenting with clothes and trying different options.
Layering
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@commedesgarcons
The avant-garde style is also characterized by multilayered. Start with the key part of the image and gradually add additional elements. Play on contrasts, combine, experiment with draperies.
Unusual materials
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Often in the avant-garde style you can find things made from materials unusual for them. Starting from fabrics and ending with plastic.Any element of your wardrobe can become part of the avant-garde image if you approach the choice of materials in a non-standard way.
Other application
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The avant-garde style encourages the use of things for other purposes. For example, a belt from your favorite trench coat may well become a great avant-garde accessory if you tie it around your arm. Gathering a fashionable avant-garde look, think about how you can still wear familiar clothes: maybe you should make a shirt out of a shirt and put on a dress like a skirt?
Asymmetry: fashion trend of the season
Avant-gardism is one of the most interesting and unusual movements not only in fashion, but also in culture as a whole. This trend has influenced fashion no less than any other aspect of art. Thanks to the avant-garde, many things that once seemed too provocative have now reached the masses.
