Loose blouse

The assemblies on the neck and sleeves, as well as the free cut of this model, will hide small errors in tailoring.

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YOU WILL NEED: • viscose knitted fabric 145 cm wide: sizes 34/36, 38/40 - 1.60 m, size 42/44 - 2.15 m; • elastic tape 1.10 m wide 7 mm; • a flap of flizelin G 785; • threads for sewing; In addition: • silk paper for transferring patterns from a sheet of patterns; • pencil, paper scissors, centimeter tape; • tailor pins; • tailor's chalk; • "magic" tailor's crayon; • scissors for cutting and small scissors for needlework; • needle of the sewing machine (Microtex needle No. 70) and a manual needle for sewing.
Recommended fabrics: thin knitted fabrics or softly draped blouse fabrics.
Back length approx. 75 cm.
Sizes 34/36 - 42/44


LAYOUT PLAN
... shows how to arrange the details of a paper pattern on a knitted fabric. Pin the details of the paper pattern / trace the details on the fabric.
1 Before 1x
2 backrest 1x
3 Sleeve 2x (right and left sleeves cut symmetrically)
a) 2 ties 40 cm long and 3 cm wide, including allowances.
BLOUSE PATTERN
... pink, so it is easy to find on the sheets of patterns. Put silk paper on a sheet of patterns and pin it. Translate the details of the pattern of your size along the corresponding contour lines and do not forget about the marking and inscriptions.
Glue parts 1 and 1a along the connection lines.
To simplify the process of cutting the details of the pattern, re-shoot twice.Glue the front / back halves along the midline of the front / back.
Extra advice: the size of the blouse is determined by the circumference of the chest (size 34/36 = 90 cm; size 38/40 = 98 cm, 42/44 = 106 cm).

STEP 1
CUT TO
Lay the knitted fabric in one layer face up. Apply the details of the paper pattern to the knitted fabric. Pin it up. Mark the seamstress around the pattern details with tailor's chalk: at the neck cuts, at the upper and lower cuts of the sleeves - 2 cm, at the seams - 1.5 cm, allowances for bending the bottom of the front and back are not provided. Draw out the ties (a). Cut out the details. For size 42/44, cut the details of the blouse according to the layout plan.
STEP 2
SEAM LINES AND STAMPING
If you cut the parts exactly on the drawn allowance lines, then
the lines of the seams and the lower edges on the details of the cut can not be transferred. At the transverse marks of the sleeves (control mark 4), as well as along the lines of the middle of the front and back, perform 5 mm notches on the allowances of the details of the cut.
STEP 3
LOGGING HINGES
On the front (front side), at a distance of 3.5 cm from each side of the line of the middle of the front, mark with a “magic” tailor's chalk 2 vertical loops 1 cm long, the distance from the neckline section is 2.5 cm. Cut 2 squares (3 x 3 cm), duplicate the gasket and sweep under the marking. Overcast the loops. Cut the protruding sections of the squares at a distance of 5 mm from the stitches.

STEP 4
LATERAL SEAMS
Before applying the front side to the front side, chop the side sections, grind with allowances of 1.5 cm wide. Tack out the allowances of each seam together: cut the allowances on the overlock to a width of 7 mm or lay on the allowances at a distance of 7 mm from the seams zigzag stitches, cut off excess fabric close to the stitches.

STEP 5
SEAMS OF SLEEVES
Fold each sleeve along the front inward. Chop off the sections of the sleeve and grind at a distance of 1.5 cm. Overlock the seam allowances together and iron forward. Turn the sleeve facing out.
STEP 6
START SLEEVE
Pin each sleeve to the side of the armhole cut to the front
side, aligning the control marks 4 on the sleeve and on the front, as well as the side seam with the seam of the sleeve (see step 2). Stitch the sleeve with allowances 1.5 cm wide. Seam the seam allowances together and iron on the sleeve, respectively, from the top to the beginning of the rounding of the armhole.

STEP 7
NECK
Iron the oversize over the neck (2 cm wide) onto the wrong side. Tuck the allowance to a width of 1.5 cm, sweep and stitch to the edge.

STEP 8
TIES
Iron one end of each tie to the wrong side, 5 mm wide. Fold the string along in half with the wrong side inwards and iron. Unfold the stitch again. Loosen the longitudinal sections to the fold, iron. Fold the tie in half again, grind to the edge. Sew the ties to the ends of a piece of elastic tape 50 cm long and put them in the neck of the neck.

STEP 9
LOWER SLEEVES
Tuck the bottom allowance of each sleeve to a width of 1.5 cm and sew to the edge, leaving a section of approx. 2 cm for sticking in elastic tape. Sections of elastic tape (for size 34/36 - 20 cm each, size 38/40 - 21 cm each, size 42/44 - 22 cm each) are put into the arms of the sleeves. Sew the ends of the tapes, stitch open sections of the seams.
Blouse 117 from the magazine BURDA 1/2013
PHOTO: U2 / ULI GLAZEMAN. TEXT: HYDEMARI TENGLER. ILLUSTRATIONS: ELKE TRIER-SHAFER.